The checked scarf is everywhere now. You’ll see it at marches, on hiking trails, in high-street shops and outside the mosque after Jumu’ah. Depending on where you are, people call it a keffiyeh, kufiya, shemagh or ghutra. If you’ve wanted to wear one but worried about getting it wrong, you may wonder, who is allowed to wear a Keffiyeh Kufiya? Anyone can wear a keffiyeh. Understanding what it means to the people it comes from will help you wear it with respect.
Where the keffiyeh comes from
This name is generally believed to have originated from Kufa, a city in Iraq. Over the years, the keffiyeh has been just a piece of cotton fabric that protected its wearers from sun, wind, and sand for farmers and desert travellers. During Ottoman Palestine was used by farmers, and signified that the user was a peasant. Instead, the richer inhabitants of the city wore the tarboosh or fez.
This changed during the Arab revolt in Palestine from 1936 to 1939, when the black/white keffiyeh was used as a symbol of Palestinian nationalism. Many years later, the fishnet-patterned keffiyeh became the trademark of Yasser Arafat, who rarely appeared in public without it.
The pattern has meaning also. The olive leaves symbolize strength and endurance. The fishnet connects Palestinian sailors to the Mediterranean, and the bold lines are the trade routes passing through Palestine.
Keffiyeh, shemagh and ghutra: what’s the difference?
These names are often used interchangeably, but each one usually refers to a different regional style:
|
Name |
Where it’s usually worn |
What it looks like |
|
Keffiyeh/kufiya |
Palestine and the wider Levant |
Black-and-white cotton with olive-leaf, fishnet and bold-line patterns |
|
Shemagh |
Jordan, Iraq, Saudi Arabia and the Gulf |
Red-and-white check, often held in place with a black cord (agal) |
|
Ghutra |
Bahrain, Qatar and other Gulf states |
Plain white, lightweight cotton suited to heat |
|
Yemeni shemagh |
Yemen |
Square scarf with coloured embroidery, worn on the head or around the neck |
In the Gulf, men wear the ghutra or shemagh on top of a small cap, under which they wear a long white robe. If you are in Saudi Arabia, you'll find that a thobe is the name of that robe; in the Emirates, it's a kandura.
Can non-Arabs or non-Muslims wear a keffiyeh?
Yes. The keffiyeh is a cultural garment, and therefore not necessarily worn only by Arabs or Muslims. It symbolizes freedom and their past to many Palestinians. For many who are not Palestinian, it's a sign of solidarity. The general attitude of the regional people towards wearing it is respectful.
There is some resistance to the wearing of the keffiyeh as a fashion without its proximal connotations. British-Palestinian rapper Shadia Mansour authored a track that denounces that sort of appropriation and asserts the keffiyeh as a symbol of Palestinian solidarity. She did not like the idea of people wearing it without understanding.
UK shoppers often mix up the names and search for Saudi kanduras, so our guide explains the difference.
Why people wear a keffiyeh today
Many people wear the black and white keffiyeh to express solidarity towards Palestinians or to be proud of their Arab heritage. Others wear one because it is either necessary or handy. It's used by hikers and desert travelers as a dust and sand mask, a shade option for the neck, and to keep them warm at night if it gets chilly.
In colder countries, it also works well as a winter scarf. Draped over a coat, it adds warmth and texture, and it goes well with a winter djellaba on cold mornings.
When a keffiyeh may be read as a political statement
Even if the reason for wearing a keffiyeh in public is “It's cold, and I want to be warm”, people will interpret it as a support for Palestinians because of its history. Many criticize its use in the name of the Israeli-Palestinian conflict, and some institutions have even banned it.
The Speaker of Ontario's legislature recently made headlines by prohibiting keffiyehs in the chamber in 2024, deeming them a political statement. The ban was a call to action for all three leaders, Premier Doug Ford and the opposition leaders, who all called for it to be repealed. Visitors were finally permitted into the building wearing one, but the ban in the chamber remains. Sydney Girls High School was taken to Court in September 2026 by a former careers adviser based on allegations of racial discrimination. He claims he was asked to stop using his keffiyeh "because it may cause discord. The B.C. education department has admitted that it recognizes the cultural significance of the keffiyeh, but it still needs to maintain "safe and well" environments in schools. There are also schools in Germany that banned the keffiyeh.
Advocates of such rules assert that schools and parliaments should be politically neutral. Many Arab and Muslim community leaders among critics allege that the keffiyeh isn't out of place, but it's discriminatory to single it out.
If you have to wear one to a school or formal event or to work, check the dress code first. Be prepared for inquiries about the meaning of it for you.
To learn how the Gulf styles are folded and worn, read our guide to the ghutra keffiyeh.
Wearing a keffiyeh respectfully
A few simple habits go a long way:
-
Learn what your scarf represents, especially if it’s the Palestinian black-and-white pattern.
-
Never wear it as part of a costume or joke.
-
Keep it off the floor and treat it like any garment you value.
-
Choose cotton over cheap synthetic copies, and buy from makers in the region where you can.
-
Avoid wearing it with slogans or images that could offend.
If you’d like simpler headwear, a kufi works on its own, and an Egyptian banded kufi adds some detail.
Caring for your keffiyeh
Wash the keffiyeh using cold water and a weak detergent; wash it by hand to prevent tassels from tangling. Lay it on the line to dry in the shade, as heat from the machine can shrink cotton and cause it to go misshapen. If it does crease, smooth it with a medium-heat steam iron.
For embroidered scarves, visit our Yemeni shemagh shop.
The Bottom Line
The keffiyeh started as practical desert wear and became one of the best-known symbols of Palestinian identity. You don’t need to come from a particular background to wear one. Wear it knowing what it means and treat it with care.
Frequently asked questions
Can women wear a keffiyeh?
Yes. Originally worn by male Palestinian villagers, the keffiyeh is also popular with women today, especially Palestinian women. Women can wear it around the neck or over the shoulders, as well as with a hijab.
Does the colour of a keffiyeh matter?
Yes, because colour usually shows where a style comes from. Black and white is the Palestinian pattern. Red and white is common in Jordan, Iraq, and parts of the Gulf, and plain white is popular in Gulf states such as Bahrain and Qatar. Brightly coloured versions are mostly modern fashion pieces.
How do I tie a keffiyeh?
For a simple head wrap, fold the scarf in half diagonally to make a triangle. Place the long edge across your forehead, with one side hanging lower than the other. Bring the longer end under your chin and up around the opposite side of your head, then tuck it in at the back. To wear it as a neck scarf, fold it into a triangle and loop it loosely around your neck.
Can children wear a keffiyeh?
Yes. Smaller sizes are made for children, and many families dress their children in one for Eid and cultural events. Keep scarves away from babies and toddlers when they sleep or play unsupervised, because anything worn around the neck can be a strangling risk. Since anyone can wear a keffiyeh, children can also wear one while learning about its cultural significance and who is allowed to wear a Keffiyeh Kufiya.
How can I tell if a keffiyeh is authentic?
Most keffiyehs sold today are made in China. A good keffiyeh is also build in cotton, feels substantial, and has its pattern woven into the fabric rather than printed on top. For a Palestinian keffiyeh, look for one made in Palestine. The Hirbawi factory in Hebron is the best-known maker, and it uses 100% cotton.
